£8 Bratwursts, £4,000-a-Day Stalls: Manchester Market Traders Say They're Not Winning Either

A sausage that sold for £3.50 now costs £8 at Manchester's Christmas markets — and the trader selling it says he isn't earning more money. "But we don't earn more money," said Nils Borstel, 25, who helps run Bratwurst King, a family business operating at the markets since 1999.

Borstel's family runs four stalls across the city centre, staffed by about 15 workers who travel from Germany plus UK-recruited staff. He told the BBC that rising costs for meat, electricity, staffing and accommodation had forced the price increases, with most of the jump coming over the past five or six years. He said he didn't want to raise prices but called them necessary to cover expenses.

The opening weekend drew busy crowds and dry weather, but Borstel said customers appeared more cautious with spending than in previous years. Some now buy one portion of food to share rather than one each. He dates the shift in spending habits to 2019, when customers bought food and drinks without worrying about the cost.

How much does a stall cost to run each day?

Charlotte Whittle, director of CT Catering, has traded at the markets for 10 years and now operates four stalls. Each stall costs at least £1,000 a day to run, she said, putting her total daily operating costs at a minimum of £4,000.

Her cost base includes:

• Staff wages and accommodation
• Deliveries, storage and packaging
• Card payment fees
• Parking — three vans in Manchester city centre can cost £100 a day alone

Before the markets open, her business spends two weeks preparing its stalls, with another two weeks needed to dismantle them after Christmas. "They think that you're just selling cookies," she said of customers who underestimate the work and expense involved.

Whittle, who started out selling homemade cakes at street food markets, said stock and packaging costs had climbed significantly. She has raised some prices but chose to absorb part of the costs rather than risk driving customers away. "We've had to take a massive cut on profits," she said. She also argued street food standards had improved, with customers now getting food comparable in quality to restaurants.

Are all traders putting prices up?

No. Clark Murphy, whose family has traded at the markets for 22 years, runs Mr Crimble Crumble, selling fruit crumbles from two stalls. He has kept most prices unchanged for three years and cut the cost of the largest portion by £2, even though cooking oil and biodegradable packaging have become more expensive.

"We haven't increased our prices for three years now," Murphy said. The business remains profitable, he said, though margins are under pressure and card payments add to operating costs.

At another food stall, a notice offered £1 off each drink or dish for cash payments. "Card fees are crazy – help us keep it simple," it read.

What do customers make of the prices?

Neve, an 18-year-old student, spent about £15 on one dish. "I think it was pricey for what it was," she said. Her friend Poppy, also 18 and taking a gap year, paid £11 for a Yorkshire pudding wrap and felt she hadn't received much food for the money, though she said it was tasty. Both said they enjoyed visiting the markets, and Neve sympathised with traders, suggesting the cost of renting space could force businesses to raise prices.

Ernie the Elf, a gift trader in his second year at the markets, sells handmade Christmas decorations in Albert Square at £4 each or three for £10, with metal signs at £9. He said traders faced substantial expenses including accommodation and parking, but believed the markets offered good value because visitors could enjoy the festive atmosphere without spending.

Tyler, from Australia, and Rebecca, from Hong Kong, were enjoying their first Christmas in England with their daughter. Rebecca bought four brownies for £10; Tyler paid £6 for a meat pie, which he called reasonable compared with some other prices — though he described another stall charging £5 for three marshmallow sticks as "outrageous." "I think if you don't buy anything, it's still great to come," he said.

With traders absorbing costs, cutting prices or passing them on, the Manchester stalls show a market where neither side of the counter feels it's getting a bargain — and where customer caution, per Borstel's shared-portion anecdote, may decide who breaks first.